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Anogia is the most famous village in Crete and one of the most symbolically charged places on the island. Twice burned to the ground — by the Ottomans in 1822 and by the Germans in 1944 — it was twice rebuilt by its inhabitants, who simply returned. Anogia is the heartland of Cretan music: the birthplace of Nikos Xylouris, the greatest lyra player of the 20th century, and a living centre of mantinades (rhyming couplets), rizitika (mountain songs) and the musical tradition that defines Cretan cultural identity. A visit here is an encounter with something that cannot be found in a museum